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What makes Go Forth K9 different?

Two things...

1. Real-world training to give you actual results. I train in my home, neighborhood, and public locations to ensure the training will transition into your home and everyday activities.

2. I do my absolute best to coach and support our clients, teaching you the skills you and your dog need to succeed as a team. 


What dogs do you train?

Dogs of all shapes, sizes, ages, mixes, and breeds.

No dog is too old to train or too young to start!

Older dogs may take a little longer but are still trainable. The oldest dog I've trained was 12!


Will my dog listen to me after training?

Your continued success is highly dependent on your commitment to training at home. 

What you allow to happen you train to happen. Anything you reward will be done more often by your dog. 

You will have to consistently reward your dog for what you want like obeying commands, as well as holding them accountable for disobedience. Discipline is not the enemy of enthusiasm!

It is equally important that you tell the dog when it is right as it is to tell it when it's wrong!

The dog will learn the commands while training and I will teach you how to reward and train your dog. I want you to succeed and I'm here to help when needed.  I will also provide a detailed homework plan so you can more easily step into your role as your dog's trainer and trusted leader. 

Potential clients need to understand that the homework and training plans for all of our training programs can include (but is not limited to)

  • hand feeding 

  • use of training tools such as leash, training collar and e collar

  • daily dalks

  • at least two 5–15-minute daily training sessions 

  • supervised leash dragging inside the home

  • crating 

  • relaxation exercises



What is your training methodology?

I'm a balanced trainer, which means I use a balance of reward and correction in training. I start all dogs in training as if they know nothing and teach a solid, ground up foundation. I train using what works best for the individual dog. I do this using any and all motivation and training aids needed to help the dog learn.

Training aids can include, but aren't limited to: food, toys, play, praise and training tools. Your dog will develop a work ethic by working for its food while in training. If you don't want to use your dog's food as a reward, be prepared to really up your praise. Most dogs will happily work for their food. 

We typically use only reward-based training with young puppies. The exception is for unwanted behaviors like your puppy using you as a chew toy. For this we do things like holding the puppies muzzle. Puppies dont like having their noses restrained so it works pretty well. 

I'm worried training will turn my dog into a mindless robot just waiting for commands!

My motto is Your Dog, Just Better 

Discipline is not the enemy of enthusiasm!

Training does not take away your dog's personality, it teaches your dog to consistently make better choices. These choices can be things like sitting calmly to be petted instead of jumping on guests.

Dogs are happier, better able to relax, and just be dogs when they know what is expected of them. A trained dog still has all of its personality, wants and desires.


Do your dogs roam the house freely with client dogs? 

Our personal dogs only interact with client dogs under supervision. Our personal dogs coexist and ignore client dogs until told they can interact. If our dogs and client dogs are a good fit, they get to play and interact.

These interactions are very useful for proofing commands and building confidence with client dogs, especially for dogs that are nervous, reactive or uncertain around dogs.


Why can't you just fix the bad behaviors I don't like? 

Many times, those unwanted behaviors are a symptom of a larger problem.  The structure, guidance and accountability training teaches your dog how to consistently make better choices. I coach you how and when to reward them or hold them accountable, so the dogs continue to make those good choices. 

Why do you use training and prong collars? 

Training and prong collars are used in a pressure and release manner. They are not put on a dog and used without teaching the dog how the collar works and how to give to leash pressure. This is taught by applying light pressure with a leash. The dog gives to the pressure by taking a step or just leaning into the pressure. As soon as they give to pressure, it goes away by me dropping all pressure. Most dogs learn this pressure and release quickly. Prong collars and training collars are a clear, humane way of teaching a dog to walk well on a leash. 

Flat collars can choke dogs that pull and harnesses often encourage pulling.  Studies have shown prong collars use less overall pressure on a dog's neck and the trachea than flat collars. Pulling on a flat collar can damage your dog's trachea; pulling in a poorly fitted no pull harness can cause negative changes in your dog's musculature, especially in the chest and rear. 

When a dog is properly conditioned and trained with a prong or training collar, they understand the pressure and release of walking on a leash. We heavily use rewards for when the dog is walking on a loose leash. Walking your dog is an essential part of their training, physical and mental wellbeing.  The prong collar provides a way for the owner to walk the dog in an easy, stress-free manner.


Why do you use e collars?

In a word, results. All commands are taught on leash, the e collar is then layered over that training.  This way the dog learns and understands it is in control of e collar stimulation.  We don't just slap a collar on the dog and shock the dog into compliance.  That's unfair to the dog and just bad training.

The remote collar gets you reliable, off leash recalls with almost all dogs.  Your dog will understand you have the ability to reach out and touch them, off leash and at a distance. We will teach you how to use this valuable tool so you can be confident in your ability to use it properly.

Not all programs include e collar training. We do not use e collars on young puppies.

We use quality, customizable e collars made by E Collar Technologies. 

We use the PE-900 model for most dogs, the Micro model is used for very small dogs, usually 6 lbs or under.


Do you offer a guarantee?

It's like hiring a fitness coach. They could be an amazing coach, but if you don't follow their diet and exercise plan you won't see the changes you want.

I will work hard to help you and your dog succeed but I can't make you do the work at home.

For this reason, I do not offer refunds or guarantees. 

I only take on clients ready for the work and commitment it takes to make a change with their dog.  Due to this I have a remarkably high success rate.

Take a look at the fb and google reviews and testimonial page to see some of my success stories. 


Where does my dog stay while in training?

Unlike the big box or franchise trainers, your dogs live, train and stay in my home.  I have a dedicated room where dogs are kept individually crated when not actively training.  This is for their safety, piece of mind and to give them a space to relax and sleep. I have the dogs in a down or hang out on place cots while I cook, clean, train other dogs and go about daily life. Dogs go on daily walks and are part of the household. This, combined with the real-world training, gives a distinct advantage in creating balanced, well-trained dogs that can more easily integrate back into your home. 


Can you housebreak my dog?

As a rule, dogs that eliminate indoors are a result of too much freedom, not enough supervision, poor potty scheduling and not crating.  I can put your dog on a schedule and teach you how to keep track of the dog. 

I cannot magically fix your dog's bladder or ensure that you stick to the schedule. 


What unwanted behaviors can you help with?

Many things including but not limited to. . .

  • nuisance barking

  • crate training

  • jumping on people 

  • nipping

  • separation or general anxiety/nervousness

  • OCD behaviors like shadow chasing

  • pulling on walks

  • door dashing

  • car sickness

  • bad behavior in the car

  • difficulty getting your dog in the car

  • housebreaking schedule

  • inability to be calm

  • chewing

  • resource guarding

  • fence fighting

  • leash reactivity/aggression

  • counter surfing/stealing food ​


What else can you help with?

I often help with

  • picky eaters

  • food changes due to allergies, sensitive stomachs or skin issues

  • poor grooming and nail trim behavior

  • weight loss

  • helping you find a food that suits your dog and your wallet

  • and more, just ask!


Can you help dogs with anxiety?

I have had great success with anxious dogs that struggled with nervous behaviors, reactivity, separation anxiety, and fear of things like men or strangers. Nervous behaviors are often the results of lack of leadership in the dog's life. These kinds of dogs thrive under the black and white, non-negotiable structure my training provides. Training provides clear communication about what is and is not acceptable. I do conditioned relaxation protocols, confidence boosting exercises, and heavily reward the desired calm behaviors. Sometimes nervous dogs have limitations due to genetics or not having the best start in life. I can help you work with those in a clear, safe manner. Some clients have even been able to wean dogs off the meds the dogs previously needed. You are the constant in your dog's life, and I will teach you to be your dog's advocate and trusted leader. On the reviews page, Onyx and Roxie are two of our nervous dog success stories. 


How do I know you're the right trainer for me?

Are you ready for a change?

Are you ready to put in the work, structure and changes necessary to be the leader your dog needs and deserves?

Do you agree with my approach and methods?

If you answered yes, we are likely a good fit!


How do I schedule with you?

When you are ready to train, reach out as soon as possible. We routinely book 4-8 weeks out. 

  1. Fill out the consult application. 

  2. Schedule a consult. This may not be necessary for young puppies. At our consult I will recommend the program best suited for your dog and discuss scheduling. I will email you a contract and invoice when you are ready to book. You can pay online, with a check or with Venmo.

  3. When your non-refundable deposit is paid in full, I will reserve your training dates. Training spots are reserved on a first come, first serve rotation. Your invoice must be paid in full before training begins. 

  4. Before training your dog must be current on their vaccinations for parvo, distemper and rabies. Rabies is only required after the dog is 6 months old. A clear fecal from the last 6 months is required as well. These requirements are to help insure the continued health and safety of client and personal dogs. 

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